OUR MATERIALS
WHAT IS GOLD FILLED?
Short answer, gold filled is a high quality, beautiful, durable, and affordable alternative to solid gold jewelry! Our gold filled is hypoallergenic, tarnish and water resistant (scroll to learn more).
But, not all “gold filled” is created equal…
At Voulez, I have been using 14k gold filled for well over a decade. In the last few years, the term "gold filled" has been coming up a lot in the jewelry world. It is a bit confusing, because some jewelry labeled as "gold filled" is not manufactured the same and is, therefore, not an equal product. In the USA, gold filled is regulated by the FTC and must meet specific manufacturing and gold content requirements.
HOW IT’S MADE MATTERS
“Gold filled”, or “gold fill”, is a jewelry industry term used to describe how a piece of jewelry is constructed. In the USA, gold filled must be made by mechanically bonding a thick, solid layer of gold to a base metal core. This is done using heat and pressure, and typically with 14k gold (sometimes 10k or 12k) and a core of nickel free jewelers brass.
Because it is a layered metal, gold filled is only available in sheet, wire, and tube form. This does limit the ways in which we can use gold filled. For example, gold filled cannot be cast. Casting means melting a metal and pouring it into a mould. This is how a lot of intricate and chunkier earrings, charms, and rings are made. Melting gold filled metal would combine the two layers of gold and brass into an alloy metal, which would then need to be plated. This would negate the benefit and value of gold filled, which is having that distinct, thick layer of gold on the outside of the core metal, which cannot be achieved through electrochemical plating.
HIGH GOLD CONTENT
I use 14k gold filled, also known as 14/20 GF, from extremely reputable US suppliers and manufactures that I have been working with for over fourteen years. In the USA, gold filled is regulated by the FTC and is required by law to contain 5% (or 1/20th) gold by weight. So if you were to weigh the 14k gold filled materials, 14k gold must make up 5% of that weight. This is the highest level of gold content in the jewelry industry, other than solid gold, of course. This is also why genuine gold filled will cost more, especially for larger and heavier pieces, because you are paying for a higher amount of gold. As of August 2026, gold is about $4,400 an ounce and was over $5,300 in the beginning of 2026.
The core metal also makes a difference. Vermeil (pronounced ver-may) is a thick layer of gold plating over sterling silver. Stainless steel can also be gold plated with a very thin layer of gold, usually through a process called PVD (physical vapor deposition). While these are still great quality products, they should not be confused with gold filled. For comparison, vermeil must contain 2.5% gold and always be over sterling silver and most gold plating is usually around 0.5% gold, although this amount can vary. Since gold filled has some limitations, I will sometimes use vermeil, PVD stainless steel, or gold plated brass charms. However, I will always make not in the description if any components are something other that 14k gold filled.
Our 14k gold filled charms are die struck from a gold filled sheet and are very thin. They will also have a hollow back. This is normal and how 14k gold filled charms are made, since casting is not possible. Also, our 14k gold filled huggie earrings are made from a gold filled tube, and are lightweight and hollow.
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
Gold filled made in other countries may not be manufactured to US standards and therefore might not contain the required 5% gold by weight. Some "18k gold filled" jewelry can be up to 3% gold (1/30th gold) by weight, which is still much thicker than gold plating. This is sometimes called Brazillian gold filled, or oro laminado, and can be really great, high quality jewelry! However, because of FTC requirements to use the term "gold filled", if a piece of jewelry contains less than 5% gold by weight, it should not be labeled as gold filled in the US. Gold filled is defined by the gold content and how it is made.
A lot of inexpensive jewelry on the market labeled as "gold filled" is actually just heavy gold plate, which is absolutely not the same. Plating is a chemical process where a very thin layer of gold is applied to a base metal, which can be pretty much any metal. Although technology is improving this process, plating can wear away quickly and expose the base metal, which can then tarnish or discolor.
WILL IT TARNISH?
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR JEWELRY
Gold filled is quite durable and tarnish resistant! Although rare, it can still tarnish under certain conditions. Exposure to chemicals like chlorine, perfumes, and even acidic skin chemistry, can begin to harm gold filled over time. Keeping your gold filled stored away from moisture and other metals, in a soft pouch or airtight bag will also help prevent tarnishing and accidental scratches. You can also clean your gold filled jewelry with water and a mild dish soap, like Dawn. Always make sure it is throughly dried before storing.
Sterling silver will begin to tarnish when exposed to oxygen and moisture, so it is best to keep sterling silver stored in an airtight bag and away from other metals when not wearing. Always make sure it is completely dry before storing. Frequent cleaning with a jewelry cloth is also recommended.
Gold plated and vermeil pieces may wear off quickly and begin to tarnish, especially if exposed to water.
IS IT WATERPROOF?
Gold filled is water resistant! Meaning, wearing it in the shower every once in a while won't cause damage (with a few exceptions like pearls, plated charms, and many gemstones). It's whats with the water that will start to affect your jewelry over time. Things like shampoo, soap, chlorine, salt, and even minerals in the water can damage your jewelry. If you do forget to take if off before you shower or swim, just rinse it well and dry it throughly.
Sweat, perfumes, lotions, and chemicals can also damage your jewelry. To keep your jewelry looking great for years to come, I recommend removing it before showering, swimming, exercising and sleeping, just to avoid additional wear and tear, accidents, or breakage.
If your piece has GOLD PLATED charms, VERMEIL, BRASS, or PEARLS (and most gemstones), PLEASE REMOVE BEFORE CONTACT WITH WATER.
Freshwater pearls are porous and moisture can cause the layers of nacre to separate. Water can cause gold plating to wear away and expose the base metal which will then likely tarnish.
Many gemstones (such as moonstone, opal, and turquoise) should not be worn in water. In general, it is best to remove jewelry with gemstones before showering or swimming because they can dull or become damaged over time.
Please remove all jewelry before swimming in chlorine or salt water! These are both highly corrosive and can damage the gold layer, as well as sterling silver. If you do choose to wear your jewelry swimming, please rinse with freshwater immediately.
IS IT HYPOALLERGENIC?
14k gold filled is considered hypoallergenic and can be worn by most people with metal allergies! However, some people who are highly sensitive to metals can still react when wearing gold filled. Please use caution and discontinue wearing any jewelry that is uncomfortable to you in any way.
Sometimes people who are sensitive to metals can wear gold filled necklaces comfortably, but may still react with gold filled earrings.
BRASS ALLERGIES
Some of our gold filled earrings are hand cut and hand bent from a piece of gold filled wire. This exposes a tiny bit of the brass core and the end of the wire. Some types of earrings (hand hammered hoops, threader styles, and some posts) may not be suitable for people with brass allergies. If this method was used to make a piece, it will be noted as "hand cut" in the item description.
OTHER METAL ALLERGIES
We occasionally use 18k gold plated charms in some of our designs. These will be noted in the item description and may not be suitable for people with metal sensitivities.
WHAT IS VERMEIL?
Vermeil (pronounced ver-may) is a layer of real gold over sterling silver. It is a thicker layer and a higher quality form of plating, but may eventually wear off and expose the sterling silver base. Please remove any vermeil pieces before showering to help prolong the life of your jewelry.